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Tag: home-improvement
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Hidden Fire Hazards in Austin Homes
What We Keep Finding Behind the Walls
by Craig Dunman, Master Electrician
Austin homes are a mixed bag. You’ve got 1950s ranchers, 1980s flips, 2000s builder-grade boxes, and everything in between — all wired to whatever code was current at the time. Problem is, most of those systems were never upgraded. And when the wiring hasn’t been touched in decades, there’s often a fire hazard just waiting to surface.
Here’s what we’re still pulling out of homes all over Austin and the surrounding area — and why it matters.
Federal Pacific Panels (FPE)
If your home still has a Federal Pacific panel — or anything labeled “Stab-Lok” — stop waiting. These breakers are known to fail under overload. When that happens, instead of tripping like they’re supposed to, they stay live and let wires overheat. Plenty of house fires across the country have started this way, and Austin is no exception.
They haven’t passed UL listing in years, and they’re not compliant with modern standards under NEC 240.60. These panels are NOT fixable. They ARE dangerous. Replacement is necessary to ensure your safety.
Zinsco / Sylvania Panels
Zinsco panels were common through the ’60s and ’70s. We still find them in older areas of Austin.
The biggest issue? The breakers can fuse to the bus bar, so when there’s a short or fault, the panel doesn’t cut power. That means your wiring can overheat, arc, and catch fire — with no breaker ever flipping. Always remember “Arcs make sparks and sparks make fire.”
If your panel says “Zinsco” or “Sylvania,” have it replaced. These aren’t up to current safety expectations and can’t be trusted.
Aluminum Wiring (1965–1973)
If your house was built between 1965 and 1973 and hasn’t been rewired, you probably have aluminum branch circuits. These expand and contract far more than copper wiring when heated leading to loose connections over time. Loose connections lead to arcing. Arcing causes fires. Remember what we said above? “Arcs make sparks and sparks make…fire.”
Modern code (NEC 110.14) requires proper aluminum-rated connectors and antioxidant paste. If you’ve got aluminum and it’s untouched, it’s not code-compliant and not safe.
Overloaded Circuits
You’d be shocked how many Texas homes are running modern setups — think deep freezers, gaming PCs, tankless water heaters — on circuits designed for a rotary phone and a lightbulb.
We routinely find 15-amp circuits carrying 25 amps of load, especially in garages, kitchens, and add-on spaces like enclosed porches or sheds. When breakers trip repeatedly, or you have warm outlets or flickering lights, that’s not “annoying.” That’s your system saying, I can’t carry this safely.
Under NEC 210.11, branch circuits must be sized and distributed appropriately. If you’ve added square footage, appliances, or even a hot tub without balancing your load? You’re out of compliance — and at risk.
Unlicensed Handyman Work (and DIY Jobs)
We don’t sugarcoat this. If you’re not licensed in Texas, you should not be touching electrical systems. That includes handymen, roofers, contractors, and homeowners. Watching YouTube or “doing it before” does not qualify you.
In Texas, electrical work without a license is illegal for a reason. It’s not about gatekeeping — it’s about protecting lives. Handymen doing unpermitted electrical work are not just breaking the law — they’re putting your family and your home at serious risk.
Cloth or Rubber-Insulated Wiring
Homes from the 1940s–60s — especially in Central Austin and older pockets of Georgetown — may still have original cloth-wrapped or early plastic-sheathed cable. This stuff deteriorates inside the walls, sometimes flaking apart the second it’s touched.
No grounding. No modern insulation. Just dry, brittle sheathing around live wires.
This isn’t “keep an eye on it” territory — it’s “replace this now” territory.
Final Word: Don’t Roll the Dice on Fire
You won’t always see the warning signs. Fires from electrical faults start behind your walls — fast, silent, and deadly. A panel that “still works” or a house that “hasn’t had problems” doesn’t mean it’s safe. It just means you’ve been lucky.
If you’re not sure what panel you have…
If you’ve got aluminum wiring and no paperwork saying it’s been remediated…
If your breakers trip every other day or someone unlicensed did your electrical…Book a licensed inspection.
It’s not overkill. It’s common sense.Call us today or reach out through our contact form to schedule!
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Replacing Outlet and Switch Covers
by Craig Dunman, Master Electrician
Swapping out your outlet and light switch covers is one of the simplest ways to clean up a space. If the old ones are cracked, stained, or painted over from a rushed remodel or “landlord special,” replacing them makes an immediate difference. It’s a quick project — no special tools, no license required. Just grab a screwdriver, press play on your favorite podcast, and set aside a few minutes per room. You’ll be surprised how much fresher everything looks once those old plates are gone.
Tools needed:
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Optional: Voltage Tester
Is this safe to do?
Yes! As long as you’re working with just the cover plate, not the outlet or switch itself, this is entirely safe for you to do on your own! That plastic faceplate is just a shield. You’re not dealing with wires, terminals, or anything live unless you go poking around underneath, which you should not be doing.
Step-by-step:
1. Start smart.
Go ahead and unplug anything that’s plugged into the outlet that you’re working on. From there, it’s smart to flip the breaker for that part of the house to ‘off’ just as an added precaution.
If you have a voltage tester, now is the time to use it to double-check that there’s no power at the outlet before you get started. This part is optional, but helpful if you want that extra layer of reassurance.
Even though you’re just changing the cover and not messing with any wiring, cutting the power takes about ten seconds and keeps things simple.
2. Unscrew the old plate.
Use a flathead screwdriver. Most plates have a single screw in the center. Keep the screw if you’re reusing it, or swap it out with the one from the new plate.
3. Check the area around the outlet or switch.You should see a snug box in the wall with no loose wires. If anything looks burnt, cracked, or melted, pause here. That’s not a cosmetic fix anymore. You will need to give a licensed electrician a call. If everything looks good, move on to the next step!
4. Attach the new cover.
Line it up and screw it in gently. Don’t over tighten. Snug is enough. Overdoing it can crack the plate or twist the switch behind it.
5. Test it.
Flip your breaker back on if you flipped it off in step 1. Turn the light back on or plug something in. If everything works as expected, you’re good to go!
Tips & Tricks of the Trade:
- Match styles across the room or house. Clean lines go a long way.
- Nylon plates are stronger than the old brittle kind and won’t crack as easily.
- Paintable plates help them blend into the wall if you’re going for a seamless look.
- Screwless options are great for a modern feel — just make sure the base plate lines up clean.
When not to DIY this:
If the outlet is loose, if anything sparks or smells off, or if you see exposed wires moving when the cover comes off — STOP That’s the point where a licensed electrician should take over. Otherwise? This one’s all you. Simple, fast, and surprisingly satisfying.
If you are running into exposed wires, sparks, and odd smells OR you simply don’t want to bother with all of the fuss, give us a call and we’ll get it taken care of for you!
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Texas Storm Prep 101
Protecting Your Electrical System
Texas storms don’t play. One minute it’s sunny, next minute you’ve got tumultuous rain, lightning strikes, and the power’s out. Wind, water, blown transformers—your electrical system takes the hit. Here’s how to prep without overthinking it:
1. Charge the Essentials — Now, Not Later
Storm’s not here yet? Good. Plug in your phone, backup chargers, power banks, tablets…If you want it to work later, plug it in now! Make sure to unplug your electronics and countertop appliances when lightning starts.
* Use power-saving mode on your phone just in case.
* Keep battery-powered flashlights in your most-used rooms.
* Stock fresh batteries in a known, dry place.
2. Unplug What You Don’t Need
Lightning surges can fry your electronics in seconds. If it doesn’t need to be running, unplug it.
* Focus on TVs, computers, gaming consoles, routers, and countertop appliances.
* Leave essentials like the fridge plugged in.
* Don’t wait for the flicker—do it before the storm rolls in.
3. Surge Protect Like You Mean It
Not all power strips are surge protectors. Check your gear.
* Look for the UL 1449 rating and a joule rating of at least 800.
* Move critical devices (routers, modems, entertainment setups, office equipment) to real surge protectors—not $5 strips from the junk drawer.
* If your surge protector’s older than five years or has taken a hit before, replace it!
At Dunman Electric, we install whole-house surge protectors, so if you don’t want to worry about this step in the future, give us a call! (512)280-8847
4. Know Your Breaker Panel
Power cuts and lightning strikes can trip breakers. You need to know how to reset them safely. We have a guide to resetting your breakers here!
* Never touch the panel with wet hands or while standing in water.
* Keep a flashlight or battery lantern near the breaker at all times.
* Reset breakers one at a time.
* If one keeps tripping after reset, something’s wrong. Call a licensed electrician.
5. Using a Generator? Know the Rules.
If you’re running a generator, follow safety protocol.
* Set it up outside— never in a garage or near vents.
* Plug devices directly into the generator unless you have a transfer switch installed.
* Let it cool fully before refueling. Hot engine +gas = explosion risk.
6. After the Storm: Walk the House
Once the storm has passed and lightning has not struck within 10 miles of your home for 30 minutes, do a walkthrough.
* Sniff for weird smells.
* Check for melted outlets, scorch marks, or anything that looks off.
* Check your breaker panel again.
* If something doesn’t look or smell right, or breakers keep tripping, stop and call a licensed electrician ASAP.
You don’t have to be an expert. Just take simple steps, in the right order, before the storm hits. Taking these steps will save you time, money, and a potential electrical fire.
Learn more about our Power & Protect Promo bundle to protect your home’s electrical system and gain peace of mind today!
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Resetting Your Circuit Breaker Safely
by Craig Dunman, Master Electrician
What Is a Circuit Breaker?
A circuit breaker is a safety device in your electrical panel that automatically shuts off power to a specific circuit when it detects an overload or fault. Think of it as a guardian of your home’s wiring. If a breaker trips, it’s doing its job—stopping electricity before it can cause overheating, damage, or even a fire.
Circuit breakers replace older fuse systems and are now standard in modern homes. Each breaker is connected to specific areas or appliances in your home: kitchen outlets, air conditioners, lighting circuits, etc.
How Does a Breaker Work?
Breakers are designed with thermal and magnetic mechanisms that sense unsafe conditions:
- Thermal Trip (Overload Protection): A bimetallic strip heats up and bends as current exceeds safe levels. This bending eventually trips the switch.
- Magnetic Trip (Short Circuit Protection): A sudden surge, such as from a direct short, activates an internal electromagnet that instantly trips the breaker.
Each breaker is rated for a certain amperage—commonly 15, 20, or 30 amps. Exceeding that number, even momentarily, will trip it.
Why Do Breakers Trip?
Some common reasons include:
- Overloaded circuits – Too many devices on one circuit (e.g., space heater + microwave).
- Short circuits – A hot wire touches a neutral or ground, causing a surge.
- Ground faults – Similar to a short, but involves unintended contact with a ground path.
- Worn-out breakers or wiring – Age, damage, or improper installation can cause nuisance trips.
If a breaker trips once, it may just be a fluke. But if it happens again, there’s likely a deeper issue.
How to Safely Reset a Tripped Breaker
If your power goes out in one part of the house, follow these steps:
- Find your electrical panel. It’s usually in a garage, utility closet, or outside.
- Look for a breaker that’s in the “off” or middle position. A tripped breaker will often look slightly out of line with the others.
- Firmly switch it to the “off” position. Then back to “on.” You must do this in two distinct steps.
- Test your power. If it comes back on, you’ve successfully reset it.
⚠️ IMPORTANT: If the breaker trips again immediately, do not keep resetting it. You’re likely dealing with a more serious issue. ⚠️
When to Call a Licensed Electrician
Here’s when it’s best to leave it to the pros:
- A breaker trips repeatedly, even after unplugging devices.
- You smell burning or hear buzzing from the panel.
- The panel is hot to the touch or shows corrosion.
- Lights flicker or dim when major appliances start.
- You don’t know what’s causing the trip, or just want peace of mind.
Remember: Breakers trip for a reason. Continuously flipping them back on without fixing the root issue can be dangerous.
Bonus Tip: Label Your Breakers
Many homeowners don’t know which breaker controls what. Take time to label them clearly—this saves time during an outage and helps electricians work more efficiently when needed. This is also a service we offer here at Dunman Electric. Or you can read our article on how to label your panels on your own.
Whether you’re dealing with a stubborn breaker, need panel upgrades, or just want a professional inspection, Dunman Electric has you covered. Our licensed electricians bring decades of experience, and we’re happy to help you learn how to keep your home safe and efficient.
📞 Call us today or book online for prompt, reliable service.
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Essential Guide to Labeling Your Breaker Panel
by Craig Dunman, Master Electrician
Why Labeling Your Breaker Panel Is Important
Your breaker panel is the command center for your home’s electrical system — but if the circuits aren’t labeled clearly, it becomes a guessing game.
In an emergency, during repairs, or when installing new equipment, knowing exactly which breaker controls what can save time, prevent injury, and avoid damage to your appliances or wiring. A clearly labeled panel is one of the simplest ways to make your home safer and more manageable.
Whether you’re a new homeowner or just never got around to organizing it, labeling your panel is something you can do yourself!
What You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather the following supplies:
[] A second person (for faster and more accurate testing)
[] Sticky notes or masking tape (for temporary labels)
[] Permanent marker (fine tip works best)
[] Notepad or printed circuit map
[] Plug-in device (lamp or outlet tester)
[] Phone or camera (to document your final layout)What Is a Circuit Map?
A circuit map is a written list or diagram that shows which circuit breaker powers which part of your home. This may be printed on the panel door, written on paper, or created digitally. Other terms for a circuit map include “Panel Schedule” or “Circuit Breaker Directory”. A complete map should include:
- The breaker number or position
- A specific description (For example: “Kitchen – Island Outlets” or “Master Bedroom – Lights”)
- Notations for special circuits like 240V appliances, smoke detectors, or outdoor outlets
This map is your reference guide for resetting breakers, shutting off electricity fast in an emergency, and helping service professionals do their jobs quickly and correctly.
Step-by-Step: How to Label Your Breaker Panel
1. Start with Safety
You will not be touching live wires, but you’ll be working inside the breaker panel. Stand on a dry surface, make sure your hands are dry, and only open the panel door — do not remove the metal cover or access the internal wiring.
2. Turn Off One Breaker at a Time
Have one person at the panel and the other inside the home. Flip a breaker off, then walk the home and check which lights, outlets, or appliances have lost power. Use a plug-in lamp or tester for quick verification.
3. Record What You Find
As each breaker is tested, write down everything it controls. Be as specific as possible — “Front Hall Light” is more useful than “Lights.”
Use sticky notes or tape to temporarily label each breaker directly on the panel.
4. Check Everywhere
Don’t forget:
- Closets, bathrooms, and hallways
- Garage, attic, and crawlspaces
- Exterior outlets and lighting
- Dedicated appliances (A/C, dryer, oven, water heater)
- Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors
- GFCI and AFCI protected areas
These may each be on their own circuits.
5. Apply Permanent Labels
Once every circuit has been identified, use your notes to create clean, permanent labels. Most electrical panels have a printed directory inside the door — fill this out legibly.
Then, take a photo of the finished panel. Keep one copy in your home files and one on your phone.
Tips from a Master Electrician
- Use consistent language throughout the panel.
- Be as specific as possible.
- Group related areas (kitchen circuits together, bedrooms in sequence).
- Update your labels any time changes are made.
What If You’d Rather Have It Done Professionally?
We get it! Not everyone wants to spend a weekend testing outlets and writing notes. At Dunman Electric, we offer full breaker panel labeling services.
Here’s what we do:
- Test every circuit in your home
- Create accurate, specific labels
- Provide a clean, printed and/or digital circuit map
- Flag any outdated, overloaded, or unsafe conditions we find during the process
Whether you’re moving in, upgrading your system, or just want things done right, we’re here to help.
Call us today to schedule your breaker labeling service — or ask about bundling it with a full safety inspection or panel upgrade.
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Why Smoke Detectors Matter and How to Install Battery-Operated Models Yourself
by Craig Dunman, Master Electrician
Smoke detectors are among the most important safety devices in your home. We at Dunman Electric want to empower homeowners with the knowledge and confidence to protect themselves and their families. In this article, I’ll explain why smoke detectors save lives, clarify the difference between battery-operated and hardwired alarms, and provide a clear, step-by-step guide to installing your own battery-operated smoke detectors safely.
Smoke detectors detect the presence of smoke particles through ionization or photoelectric sensors. When smoke reaches the detector’s sensor, the device sounds a loud alarm to alert you and your family to potential danger.
According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), working smoke alarms reduce the risk of dying in a home fire by nearly 50%. Many tragic fires happen at night when people are asleep and unaware. A smoke alarm’s loud signal provides early warning, giving everyone more time to escape safely.
Understanding Alarm Signals
- Continuous Loud Alarm: This means smoke or fire has been detected. Immediately evacuate your home and call emergency services.
- Intermittent Chirping: This signals low battery power or device malfunction. Replace the battery right away; don’t ignore the warning.
- No Sound During Test: If the alarm doesn’t sound during testing, replace batteries or the unit itself.
Battery-Operated vs. Hardwired Smoke Detectors: What’s the Difference?
There are two common types of smoke detectors you’ll find in homes:
Battery-Operated Smoke Detectors
- Power Source: Run solely on batteries (usually 9V or AA).
- Installation: Easy and quick—no wiring needed.
- Function: Standalone units, meaning each detector works independently. If one detects smoke, only that unit will sound an alarm.
- Maintenance: Batteries must be checked regularly and replaced at least once every 12 months. Some newer models come with sealed 10-year lithium batteries which allow for fewer battery replacements over time, but should still be tested monthly.
- Best For: Homes without existing wiring or as additional detectors for enhanced coverage.
Hardwired Smoke Detectors
- Power Source: Connected to your home’s electrical system, typically on a 120V circuit, with a battery backup in case of power failure.
- Installation: Requires electrical knowledge and proper wiring, best done by a licensed electrician.
- Function: Usually interconnected—when one alarm sounds, all alarms in the home sound simultaneously. This provides quicker alerts throughout the house.
- Maintenance: Battery backup needs periodic replacement; the main power supply is constant.
- Best For: New construction or full home safety systems.
Both types must meet Underwriters Laboratories (UL) standards to ensure that they have passed rigorous safety and reliability testing.
Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Battery-Operated Smoke Detectors
If you choose battery-operated alarms, you can install them yourself with these straightforward steps.
What You Need
- UL-listed battery-operated smoke detectors (look for the UL label on packaging)
- Appropriate batteries (usually 9V or AA; confirm with your unit’s instructions)
- Screwdriver (typically Phillips (+) head)
- Pencil
- Drill and wall anchors (optional, for drywall installations)
Installation Steps
- Select Proper Locations
- Inside every bedroom
- Outside each sleeping area (in hallways)
- On every level of your home, including the basement
- Avoid placing near windows, doors, or air vents where drafts can interfere
- Mount on the ceiling or high on a wall (smoke rises)
- Mark the Mounting Holes
Use the mounting bracket as a template. Hold it in place and mark the screw holes with a pencil. - Drill Pilot Holes (if needed)
For drywall or plaster, drill small holes or insert wall anchors to secure the screws firmly. - Attach the Mounting Bracket
Screw the bracket securely into the wall or ceiling. - Insert Batteries
Open the battery compartment and insert fresh batteries, ensuring correct polarity (+/-). - Mount the Detector
Attach the smoke detector to the bracket, usually by twisting or snapping it into place. - Test the Detector
Press the test button to verify the alarm sounds loudly. If it doesn’t, check the battery installation or replace batteries. - Maintain Regularly
- Test monthly to ensure operation.
- Replace batteries at least once a year, or as soon as the low battery chirp sounds.
- Replace the entire smoke detector every 10 years, as sensors can degrade over time. We recommend writing the date of install somewhere on the detector to ensure you know when to replace the unit.
Important Safety Notes
- Never disconnect a smoke detector to silence an alarm without investigating the cause.
- Avoid painting over detectors or covering them, as this can impair function.
- For homes with hardwired systems, consult a licensed electrician (like Dunman Electric) for installation or maintenance.
Helpful Safety Resources
For further safety guidance, visit these trusted sites:
- National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) – Smoke Alarm Safety
- U.S. Fire Administration – Smoke Detectors
- Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) – Smoke Alarms
The Austin Fire Department has a free smoke alarm program for homeowners in the Austin area. For more information, visit their website here.
Final Thoughts
Smoke detectors are a simple, affordable, and essential part of home safety. Whether you install battery-operated models yourself or invest in hardwired systems, having properly functioning alarms can save lives. A detector that is installed incorrectly or does not work is as good as not having one at all.
If you have any questions about your home’s electrical safety or want professional help installing or upgrading smoke detectors- give us a call, shoot us an email, or reach out through our contact form and schedule a checkup today! Your safety is always our priority.